[Clayart] MEL'S GEAR

Wed Feb 19 05:02:19 UTC 2025

But Terry, If you've been there, I'm sure that you know this: one has to know the finer points of the sport of Haggling and love to stomp, cuss and swear, run in circles, stand on your head, and on hands walk backwards while doing a handstand, for an hour or so to prevail over the 3 to 5 cents stalling a deal, until someone grudgingly or laughingly gives in.

Re Mel's gear: Some folks can fix anything because of extreme creative necessity,
American "professional welders" trained at VO Tech schools would not have a clue except not to try.
BUT an old grizzled and crotchety repair welder from Black Duck, Mn. or some such place can, as they say "of the old Deep South Millwrights,"........ " they can weld a cat's ass to a window pane."  And it is likely so.....

Woof...................................................................................................................................................
*****************************************************************
________________________________
From: Clayart <clayart-bounces at lists.clayartforum.com> on behalf of Terry Lazaroff via Clayart <clayart at lists.clayartforum.com>
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2025 5:39 PM
To: Clayart international pottery discussion forum <clayart at lists.clayartforum.com>
Cc: Terry Lazaroff <terrylazaroff at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Clayart] MEL'S GEAR

Take the broken gear to Pakistan.

I watch the workers there and seem to be able to repair everything.  When I was in Syria, I was told that if I gave the hubcap to a 1938 BMW, they could build the car to fit it.  LOL.

Terry

________________________________
From: Clayart <clayart-bounces at lists.clayartforum.com> on behalf of Michael via Clayart <clayart at lists.clayartforum.com>
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2025 5:40 PM
To: clayart at lists.clayartforum.com <clayart at lists.clayartforum.com>
Cc: Michael <clayart at earthlink.net>
Subject: [Clayart] MEL'S GEAR

Is it possible to just weld the broken parts back together?? Mike Gordon

-----Original Message-----
From: <clayart at lists.clayartforum.com>
Sent: Feb 17, 2025 1:52 PM
To: <clayart at lists.clayartforum.com>
Subject: Clayart Digest, Vol 111, Issue 12

Send Clayart mailing list submissions to
clayart at lists.clayartforum.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
https://lists.clayartforum.com/mailman/listinfo/clayart
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
clayart-request at lists.clayartforum.com

You can reach the person managing the list at
clayart-owner at lists.clayartforum.com

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Clayart digest..."

Today's Topics:

1. used walker pug mill gear motor (melpots at mail.com)
2. Re: Measuring Glaze Thickness (Paul Randall)
3. Re: Measuring Glaze Thickness (kathi at lesueurclaywork.com)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2025 18:12:03 +0000
From: "melpots at mail.com"
To: "clayart at lists.clayartforum.com"
Subject: [Clayart] used walker pug mill gear motor
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Anybody know of a broken down walker pug mill with a gear motor that runs attached.
I have a wonderful old walker with a broken gear. It cannot be replaced as it is a one of a kind.
I have my frozen solid (-21F) today walker in my garage.

I have been thinking of fixing my other walker just for inside my studio with small batches.

Anyway. just thinking out loud. Someone may have a thought to share.I have been thinking of welding a used gear motor to the pug mill. I don't need all that torque, and only slow speed...
mel

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL:

------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2025 19:17:24 +0000
From: Paul Randall
To: Clayart international pottery discussion forum

Subject: Re: [Clayart] Measuring Glaze Thickness
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Whatever. My current syringe only holds 60cc. Each potter is different, each potter has their own working state.
Paul

Get Outlook for iOS
________________________________
From: Clayart on behalf of Dragonbelly Ceramics via Clayart
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2025 11:27:19 AM
To: Clayart international pottery discussion forum
Cc: Dragonbelly Ceramics
Subject: Re: [Clayart] Measuring Glaze Thickness

Isn't is simpler to weigh the empty syringe and tare it, then weigh the
glaze-filled 100 ml syringe, and simply move the decimal point 2 points to
the left?

100 ml of water weighs 100 grams.

If your 100 ml of glaze weighs 140 grams, the specific gravity is 1.4

Am I missing something?

LJ

On Mon, Feb 17, 2025 at 1:07?AM Robert Santerre via Clayart wrote:

> Yeah Dick, this same method of measuring specific gravity of a glaze can
> be done quite precisely with a 100 ml graduated cylinder (glass or plastic)
> that can be readily purchased online. And if the cylinder gets broken, it
> can be readily and cheaply replaced. Weigh the empty cylinder, then fill
> it with water to the 100 ml mark and weigh the filled cylinder. Then pour
> out the water, fill the cylinder to the 100 ml mark with your glaze mix,
> weigh it and make the calculation ... weight of the glaze mix minus the
> weight of the empty cylinder divided by the weight of the water minus the
> weight of the empty cylinder = specific gravity of the glaze mix. Quick
> and easy, very repeatable and quite precise/accurate.
>
> But, to be clear, specific gravity does not describe the "thickness" of a
> glaze mix. Thickness or viscosity describes the rheological property of a
> glaze. It describes how the glaze flows, a mechanical property of the
> glaze. The ?thickness?, flow or mechanical property of a glaze can be
> influenced in many ways (independent of its specific gravity). For
> example, a glaze with a good amount of clay in it can be thickened by
> adding small amounts of acid, like hydrochloric acid ? or the thickness
> (viscosity) can be decreased by adding small amounts of a base, like sodium
> hydroxide. You can get a reasonably accurate measure of glaze ?thickness?
> by pouring a measured amount of a glaze into a funnel and timing how long
> it takes for the glaze to pour out of the funnel. The longer it takes to
> empty out of the funnel the thicker, more viscose the glaze.
>
>
>
> The two measurements (specific gravity and ?thickness?) work together to
> determine how much glaze you will apply to a pot. In my experience glaze
> viscosity is often the most important factor determining how much glaze you
> are applying to a pot. There are of course a number of other factors
> influencing the amount of glaze applied to a pot, e.g., how long the pot is
> held in the glaze, is the pot dipped in the glaze or is the glaze poured
> over the pot, variations in the thickness of the bisqued pot (for example
> the thickness the handle of a mug versus the wall thickness, etc., etc.
> Lots of variables, many of which can only be determined and controlled by
> the experience of the individual potter.
>
>
>
> Again, in my experience that?s why glaze formulas don?t always travel
> well. The experience of the potter and his/her kiln are THE MAJOR
> FACTORS.
>
>
>
> Bob Santerre
>
> formerly Arrowsic Island Pottery
>
> //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clayart [mailto:clayart-bounces at lists.clayartforum.com] On Behalf
> Of Dick Lumaghi via Clayart
> Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2025 5:58 PM
> To: Clayart international pottery discussion forum
> Cc: Dick Lumaghi
> Subject: [Clayart] Measuring Glaze Thickness
>
>
>
> The recent mentions on Clayart of the Shaner?s Red glaze prompt me to
> respond. That glaze, along with one or
>
> two varieties of a Cushing Mat glaze, gave me fits when I tried to measure
> its thickness accurately. I tried various
>
> hydrometer methods?the cheap and dirty use of a stick with a bolt screwed
> into one end with gradations along
>
> the stick, or a battery tester with the bulb?and they just didn?t work for
> me. I happened to bump into a potter who
>
> did the weighing method and it was transformative for me. Yes, it took a
> bit of time to check all the buckets of
>
> glazes at the beginning of ?Glaze Day?, but the results were, for me,
> wonderful: FINALLY some certainty about
>
> these most finicky glazes, and now I use it with all my glazes. Here?s my
> method:
>
>
>
> I got lucky and found a generously sized, double walled plastic coffee cup
> with a good handle. It holds about 500
>
> grams of glaze and that seems about right to get consistent results. Most
> importantly, the cup happened to have a
>
> rather sharp top lip, where the two walls were joined together. So what I
> do is place my triple beam scale on a box
>
> resting on the sink table so that when the cup is on the scale, its top is
> eye level. I stir up the glaze with a Jiffy mixer
>
> and a drill, pour a good amount into the cup, place the cup on the scale,
> and finish adding glaze with a turkey
>
> baster until there is a nice meniscus (the bulge from the liquid?s surface
> tension trying to hold the liquid inside
>
> the container) and then I read the weight and note it down. That sharp
> edge of my cup seems crucial to holding
>
> exactly the same amount time after time. When I get a weight that works,
> I put it on the glaze notes I have on the
>
> wall and on the bucket as well.
>
>
>
> Perhaps this is no news to most of you and I cannot claim any originality
> with this method. I did, however, have
>
> a (rare) flash of inspiration that may be novel. It occurred to me that
> if I somehow lost or broke my precious cup, I?d be
>
> sunk?all that work having to be done again. I was a pretty rotten math
> student, but something must have remained,
>
> for I got the idea to weigh the cup full of water and note that weight in
> my records so that I could have a factor to measure
>
> against any other container in the future.
>
>
>
> I?ve been doing this method for over 40 years and it occurs to me that
> perhaps there are more up to date ways to do this
>
> and I?d be open to hearing about them.
>
>
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
> Dick Lumaghi
>
> dlumaghi at cybermesa.com=
>
>
>
> --
> This email has been checked for viruses by Norton antivirus software.
> www.norton.com<http://www.norton.com>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: https://lists.clayartforum.com/pipermail/clayart/attachments/20250217/cfeded49/attachment.htm
> >
>

--
http://www.dragonbellyceramics.com
* where imagination meets function*
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL:
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL:

------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2025 16:05:14 -0500
From: "kathi at lesueurclaywork.com"
To: Clayart international pottery discussion forum

Subject: Re: [Clayart] Measuring Glaze Thickness
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

This is how I do it. I have a beaker that will hold 100 ml. I pour the glaze in and weigh it. Easy
Sent from my iPad

> On Feb 17, 2025, at 3:37?PM, Paul Randall via Clayart wrote:
>
> ?Whatever. My current syringe only holds 60cc. Each potter is different, each potter has their own working state.
> Paul
>
> Get Outlook for iOS
> ________________________________
> From: Clayart on behalf of Dragonbelly Ceramics via Clayart
> Sent: Monday, February 17, 2025 11:27:19 AM
> To: Clayart international pottery discussion forum
> Cc: Dragonbelly Ceramics
> Subject: Re: [Clayart] Measuring Glaze Thickness
>
> Isn't is simpler to weigh the empty syringe and tare it, then weigh the
> glaze-filled 100 ml syringe, and simply move the decimal point 2 points to
> the left?
>
> 100 ml of water weighs 100 grams.
>
> If your 100 ml of glaze weighs 140 grams, the specific gravity is 1.4
>
> Am I missing something?
>
> LJ
>
>> On Mon, Feb 17, 2025 at 1:07?AM Robert Santerre via Clayart > clayart at lists.clayartforum.com> wrote:
>>
>> Yeah Dick, this same method of measuring specific gravity of a glaze can
>> be done quite precisely with a 100 ml graduated cylinder (glass or plastic)
>> that can be readily purchased online. And if the cylinder gets broken, it
>> can be readily and cheaply replaced. Weigh the empty cylinder, then fill
>> it with water to the 100 ml mark and weigh the filled cylinder. Then pour
>> out the water, fill the cylinder to the 100 ml mark with your glaze mix,
>> weigh it and make the calculation ... weight of the glaze mix minus the
>> weight of the empty cylinder divided by the weight of the water minus the
>> weight of the empty cylinder = specific gravity of the glaze mix. Quick
>> and easy, very repeatable and quite precise/accurate.
>>
>> But, to be clear, specific gravity does not describe the "thickness" of a
>> glaze mix. Thickness or viscosity describes the rheological property of a
>> glaze. It describes how the glaze flows, a mechanical property of the
>> glaze. The ?thickness?, flow or mechanical property of a glaze can be
>> influenced in many ways (independent of its specific gravity). For
>> example, a glaze with a good amount of clay in it can be thickened by
>> adding small amounts of acid, like hydrochloric acid ? or the thickness
>> (viscosity) can be decreased by adding small amounts of a base, like sodium
>> hydroxide. You can get a reasonably accurate measure of glaze ?thickness?
>> by pouring a measured amount of a glaze into a funnel and timing how long
>> it takes for the glaze to pour out of the funnel. The longer it takes to
>> empty out of the funnel the thicker, more viscose the glaze.
>>
>>
>>
>> The two measurements (specific gravity and ?thickness?) work together to
>> determine how much glaze you will apply to a pot. In my experience glaze
>> viscosity is often the most important factor determining how much glaze you
>> are applying to a pot. There are of course a number of other factors
>> influencing the amount of glaze applied to a pot, e.g., how long the pot is
>> held in the glaze, is the pot dipped in the glaze or is the glaze poured
>> over the pot, variations in the thickness of the bisqued pot (for example
>> the thickness the handle of a mug versus the wall thickness, etc., etc.
>> Lots of variables, many of which can only be determined and controlled by
>> the experience of the individual potter.
>>
>>
>>
>> Again, in my experience that?s why glaze formulas don?t always travel
>> well. The experience of the potter and his/her kiln are THE MAJOR
>> FACTORS.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob Santerre
>>
>> formerly Arrowsic Island Pottery
>>
>> //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Clayart [mailto:clayart-bounces at lists.clayartforum.com] On Behalf
>> Of Dick Lumaghi via Clayart
>> Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2025 5:58 PM
>> To: Clayart international pottery discussion forum
>> Cc: Dick Lumaghi
>> Subject: [Clayart] Measuring Glaze Thickness
>>
>>
>>
>> The recent mentions on Clayart of the Shaner?s Red glaze prompt me to
>> respond. That glaze, along with one or
>>
>> two varieties of a Cushing Mat glaze, gave me fits when I tried to measure
>> its thickness accurately. I tried various
>>
>> hydrometer methods?the cheap and dirty use of a stick with a bolt screwed
>> into one end with gradations along
>>
>> the stick, or a battery tester with the bulb?and they just didn?t work for
>> me. I happened to bump into a potter who
>>
>> did the weighing method and it was transformative for me. Yes, it took a
>> bit of time to check all the buckets of
>>
>> glazes at the beginning of ?Glaze Day?, but the results were, for me,
>> wonderful: FINALLY some certainty about
>>
>> these most finicky glazes, and now I use it with all my glazes. Here?s my
>> method:
>>
>>
>>
>> I got lucky and found a generously sized, double walled plastic coffee cup
>> with a good handle. It holds about 500
>>
>> grams of glaze and that seems about right to get consistent results. Most
>> importantly, the cup happened to have a
>>
>> rather sharp top lip, where the two walls were joined together. So what I
>> do is place my triple beam scale on a box
>>
>> resting on the sink table so that when the cup is on the scale, its top is
>> eye level. I stir up the glaze with a Jiffy mixer
>>
>> and a drill, pour a good amount into the cup, place the cup on the scale,
>> and finish adding glaze with a turkey
>>
>> baster until there is a nice meniscus (the bulge from the liquid?s surface
>> tension trying to hold the liquid inside
>>
>> the container) and then I read the weight and note it down. That sharp
>> edge of my cup seems crucial to holding
>>
>> exactly the same amount time after time. When I get a weight that works,
>> I put it on the glaze notes I have on the
>>
>> wall and on the bucket as well.
>>
>>
>>
>> Perhaps this is no news to most of you and I cannot claim any originality
>> with this method. I did, however, have
>>
>> a (rare) flash of inspiration that may be novel. It occurred to me that
>> if I somehow lost or broke my precious cup, I?d be
>>
>> sunk?all that work having to be done again. I was a pretty rotten math
>> student, but something must have remained,
>>
>> for I got the idea to weigh the cup full of water and note that weight in
>> my records so that I could have a factor to measure
>>
>> against any other container in the future.
>>
>>
>>
>> I?ve been doing this method for over 40 years and it occurs to me that
>> perhaps there are more up to date ways to do this
>>
>> and I?d be open to hearing about them.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>>
>>
>> Dick Lumaghi
>>
>> dlumaghi at cybermesa.com=
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Norton antivirus software.
>> www.norton.com<http://www.norton.com>
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL: > https://lists.clayartforum.com/pipermail/clayart/attachments/20250217/cfeded49/attachment.htm
>>>
>>
>
>
> --
> http://www.dragonbellyceramics.com
> * where imagination meets function*
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:

End of Clayart Digest, Vol 111, Issue 12
****************************************

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <https://lists.clayartforum.com/pipermail/clayart/attachments/20250218/6d903c40/attachment.htm>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <https://lists.clayartforum.com/pipermail/clayart/attachments/20250219/e1000d53/attachment.htm>