[Clayart] MEL'S GEAR

Tue Feb 18 00:39:41 UTC 2025

Take the broken gear to Pakistan.

I watch the workers there and seem to be able to repair everything.  When I was in Syria, I was told that if I gave the hubcap to a 1938 BMW, they could build the car to fit it.  LOL.

Terry

________________________________
From: Clayart <clayart-bounces at lists.clayartforum.com> on behalf of Michael via Clayart <clayart at lists.clayartforum.com>
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2025 5:40 PM
To: clayart at lists.clayartforum.com <clayart at lists.clayartforum.com>
Cc: Michael <clayart at earthlink.net>
Subject: [Clayart] MEL'S GEAR

Is it possible to just weld the broken parts back together?? Mike Gordon

-----Original Message-----
From: <clayart at lists.clayartforum.com>
Sent: Feb 17, 2025 1:52 PM
To: <clayart at lists.clayartforum.com>
Subject: Clayart Digest, Vol 111, Issue 12

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Today's Topics:

1. used walker pug mill gear motor (melpots at mail.com)
2. Re: Measuring Glaze Thickness (Paul Randall)
3. Re: Measuring Glaze Thickness (kathi at lesueurclaywork.com)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2025 18:12:03 +0000
From: "melpots at mail.com"
To: "clayart at lists.clayartforum.com"
Subject: [Clayart] used walker pug mill gear motor
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Anybody know of a broken down walker pug mill with a gear motor that runs attached.
I have a wonderful old walker with a broken gear. It cannot be replaced as it is a one of a kind.
I have my frozen solid (-21F) today walker in my garage.

I have been thinking of fixing my other walker just for inside my studio with small batches.

Anyway. just thinking out loud. Someone may have a thought to share.I have been thinking of welding a used gear motor to the pug mill. I don't need all that torque, and only slow speed...
mel

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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2025 19:17:24 +0000
From: Paul Randall
To: Clayart international pottery discussion forum

Subject: Re: [Clayart] Measuring Glaze Thickness
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Whatever. My current syringe only holds 60cc. Each potter is different, each potter has their own working state.
Paul

Get Outlook for iOS
________________________________
From: Clayart on behalf of Dragonbelly Ceramics via Clayart
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2025 11:27:19 AM
To: Clayart international pottery discussion forum
Cc: Dragonbelly Ceramics
Subject: Re: [Clayart] Measuring Glaze Thickness

Isn't is simpler to weigh the empty syringe and tare it, then weigh the
glaze-filled 100 ml syringe, and simply move the decimal point 2 points to
the left?

100 ml of water weighs 100 grams.

If your 100 ml of glaze weighs 140 grams, the specific gravity is 1.4

Am I missing something?

LJ

On Mon, Feb 17, 2025 at 1:07?AM Robert Santerre via Clayart wrote:

> Yeah Dick, this same method of measuring specific gravity of a glaze can
> be done quite precisely with a 100 ml graduated cylinder (glass or plastic)
> that can be readily purchased online. And if the cylinder gets broken, it
> can be readily and cheaply replaced. Weigh the empty cylinder, then fill
> it with water to the 100 ml mark and weigh the filled cylinder. Then pour
> out the water, fill the cylinder to the 100 ml mark with your glaze mix,
> weigh it and make the calculation ... weight of the glaze mix minus the
> weight of the empty cylinder divided by the weight of the water minus the
> weight of the empty cylinder = specific gravity of the glaze mix. Quick
> and easy, very repeatable and quite precise/accurate.
>
> But, to be clear, specific gravity does not describe the "thickness" of a
> glaze mix. Thickness or viscosity describes the rheological property of a
> glaze. It describes how the glaze flows, a mechanical property of the
> glaze. The ?thickness?, flow or mechanical property of a glaze can be
> influenced in many ways (independent of its specific gravity). For
> example, a glaze with a good amount of clay in it can be thickened by
> adding small amounts of acid, like hydrochloric acid ? or the thickness
> (viscosity) can be decreased by adding small amounts of a base, like sodium
> hydroxide. You can get a reasonably accurate measure of glaze ?thickness?
> by pouring a measured amount of a glaze into a funnel and timing how long
> it takes for the glaze to pour out of the funnel. The longer it takes to
> empty out of the funnel the thicker, more viscose the glaze.
>
>
>
> The two measurements (specific gravity and ?thickness?) work together to
> determine how much glaze you will apply to a pot. In my experience glaze
> viscosity is often the most important factor determining how much glaze you
> are applying to a pot. There are of course a number of other factors
> influencing the amount of glaze applied to a pot, e.g., how long the pot is
> held in the glaze, is the pot dipped in the glaze or is the glaze poured
> over the pot, variations in the thickness of the bisqued pot (for example
> the thickness the handle of a mug versus the wall thickness, etc., etc.
> Lots of variables, many of which can only be determined and controlled by
> the experience of the individual potter.
>
>
>
> Again, in my experience that?s why glaze formulas don?t always travel
> well. The experience of the potter and his/her kiln are THE MAJOR
> FACTORS.
>
>
>
> Bob Santerre
>
> formerly Arrowsic Island Pottery
>
> //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clayart [mailto:clayart-bounces at lists.clayartforum.com] On Behalf
> Of Dick Lumaghi via Clayart
> Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2025 5:58 PM
> To: Clayart international pottery discussion forum
> Cc: Dick Lumaghi
> Subject: [Clayart] Measuring Glaze Thickness
>
>
>
> The recent mentions on Clayart of the Shaner?s Red glaze prompt me to
> respond. That glaze, along with one or
>
> two varieties of a Cushing Mat glaze, gave me fits when I tried to measure
> its thickness accurately. I tried various
>
> hydrometer methods?the cheap and dirty use of a stick with a bolt screwed
> into one end with gradations along
>
> the stick, or a battery tester with the bulb?and they just didn?t work for
> me. I happened to bump into a potter who
>
> did the weighing method and it was transformative for me. Yes, it took a
> bit of time to check all the buckets of
>
> glazes at the beginning of ?Glaze Day?, but the results were, for me,
> wonderful: FINALLY some certainty about
>
> these most finicky glazes, and now I use it with all my glazes. Here?s my
> method:
>
>
>
> I got lucky and found a generously sized, double walled plastic coffee cup
> with a good handle. It holds about 500
>
> grams of glaze and that seems about right to get consistent results. Most
> importantly, the cup happened to have a
>
> rather sharp top lip, where the two walls were joined together. So what I
> do is place my triple beam scale on a box
>
> resting on the sink table so that when the cup is on the scale, its top is
> eye level. I stir up the glaze with a Jiffy mixer
>
> and a drill, pour a good amount into the cup, place the cup on the scale,
> and finish adding glaze with a turkey
>
> baster until there is a nice meniscus (the bulge from the liquid?s surface
> tension trying to hold the liquid inside
>
> the container) and then I read the weight and note it down. That sharp
> edge of my cup seems crucial to holding
>
> exactly the same amount time after time. When I get a weight that works,
> I put it on the glaze notes I have on the
>
> wall and on the bucket as well.
>
>
>
> Perhaps this is no news to most of you and I cannot claim any originality
> with this method. I did, however, have
>
> a (rare) flash of inspiration that may be novel. It occurred to me that
> if I somehow lost or broke my precious cup, I?d be
>
> sunk?all that work having to be done again. I was a pretty rotten math
> student, but something must have remained,
>
> for I got the idea to weigh the cup full of water and note that weight in
> my records so that I could have a factor to measure
>
> against any other container in the future.
>
>
>
> I?ve been doing this method for over 40 years and it occurs to me that
> perhaps there are more up to date ways to do this
>
> and I?d be open to hearing about them.
>
>
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
> Dick Lumaghi
>
> dlumaghi at cybermesa.com=
>
>
>
> --
> This email has been checked for viruses by Norton antivirus software.
> www.norton.com<http://www.norton.com>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
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> >
>

--
http://www.dragonbellyceramics.com
* where imagination meets function*
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2025 16:05:14 -0500
From: "kathi at lesueurclaywork.com"
To: Clayart international pottery discussion forum

Subject: Re: [Clayart] Measuring Glaze Thickness
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

This is how I do it. I have a beaker that will hold 100 ml. I pour the glaze in and weigh it. Easy
Sent from my iPad

> On Feb 17, 2025, at 3:37?PM, Paul Randall via Clayart wrote:
>
> ?Whatever. My current syringe only holds 60cc. Each potter is different, each potter has their own working state.
> Paul
>
> Get Outlook for iOS
> ________________________________
> From: Clayart on behalf of Dragonbelly Ceramics via Clayart
> Sent: Monday, February 17, 2025 11:27:19 AM
> To: Clayart international pottery discussion forum
> Cc: Dragonbelly Ceramics
> Subject: Re: [Clayart] Measuring Glaze Thickness
>
> Isn't is simpler to weigh the empty syringe and tare it, then weigh the
> glaze-filled 100 ml syringe, and simply move the decimal point 2 points to
> the left?
>
> 100 ml of water weighs 100 grams.
>
> If your 100 ml of glaze weighs 140 grams, the specific gravity is 1.4
>
> Am I missing something?
>
> LJ
>
>> On Mon, Feb 17, 2025 at 1:07?AM Robert Santerre via Clayart > clayart at lists.clayartforum.com> wrote:
>>
>> Yeah Dick, this same method of measuring specific gravity of a glaze can
>> be done quite precisely with a 100 ml graduated cylinder (glass or plastic)
>> that can be readily purchased online. And if the cylinder gets broken, it
>> can be readily and cheaply replaced. Weigh the empty cylinder, then fill
>> it with water to the 100 ml mark and weigh the filled cylinder. Then pour
>> out the water, fill the cylinder to the 100 ml mark with your glaze mix,
>> weigh it and make the calculation ... weight of the glaze mix minus the
>> weight of the empty cylinder divided by the weight of the water minus the
>> weight of the empty cylinder = specific gravity of the glaze mix. Quick
>> and easy, very repeatable and quite precise/accurate.
>>
>> But, to be clear, specific gravity does not describe the "thickness" of a
>> glaze mix. Thickness or viscosity describes the rheological property of a
>> glaze. It describes how the glaze flows, a mechanical property of the
>> glaze. The ?thickness?, flow or mechanical property of a glaze can be
>> influenced in many ways (independent of its specific gravity). For
>> example, a glaze with a good amount of clay in it can be thickened by
>> adding small amounts of acid, like hydrochloric acid ? or the thickness
>> (viscosity) can be decreased by adding small amounts of a base, like sodium
>> hydroxide. You can get a reasonably accurate measure of glaze ?thickness?
>> by pouring a measured amount of a glaze into a funnel and timing how long
>> it takes for the glaze to pour out of the funnel. The longer it takes to
>> empty out of the funnel the thicker, more viscose the glaze.
>>
>>
>>
>> The two measurements (specific gravity and ?thickness?) work together to
>> determine how much glaze you will apply to a pot. In my experience glaze
>> viscosity is often the most important factor determining how much glaze you
>> are applying to a pot. There are of course a number of other factors
>> influencing the amount of glaze applied to a pot, e.g., how long the pot is
>> held in the glaze, is the pot dipped in the glaze or is the glaze poured
>> over the pot, variations in the thickness of the bisqued pot (for example
>> the thickness the handle of a mug versus the wall thickness, etc., etc.
>> Lots of variables, many of which can only be determined and controlled by
>> the experience of the individual potter.
>>
>>
>>
>> Again, in my experience that?s why glaze formulas don?t always travel
>> well. The experience of the potter and his/her kiln are THE MAJOR
>> FACTORS.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob Santerre
>>
>> formerly Arrowsic Island Pottery
>>
>> //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Clayart [mailto:clayart-bounces at lists.clayartforum.com] On Behalf
>> Of Dick Lumaghi via Clayart
>> Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2025 5:58 PM
>> To: Clayart international pottery discussion forum
>> Cc: Dick Lumaghi
>> Subject: [Clayart] Measuring Glaze Thickness
>>
>>
>>
>> The recent mentions on Clayart of the Shaner?s Red glaze prompt me to
>> respond. That glaze, along with one or
>>
>> two varieties of a Cushing Mat glaze, gave me fits when I tried to measure
>> its thickness accurately. I tried various
>>
>> hydrometer methods?the cheap and dirty use of a stick with a bolt screwed
>> into one end with gradations along
>>
>> the stick, or a battery tester with the bulb?and they just didn?t work for
>> me. I happened to bump into a potter who
>>
>> did the weighing method and it was transformative for me. Yes, it took a
>> bit of time to check all the buckets of
>>
>> glazes at the beginning of ?Glaze Day?, but the results were, for me,
>> wonderful: FINALLY some certainty about
>>
>> these most finicky glazes, and now I use it with all my glazes. Here?s my
>> method:
>>
>>
>>
>> I got lucky and found a generously sized, double walled plastic coffee cup
>> with a good handle. It holds about 500
>>
>> grams of glaze and that seems about right to get consistent results. Most
>> importantly, the cup happened to have a
>>
>> rather sharp top lip, where the two walls were joined together. So what I
>> do is place my triple beam scale on a box
>>
>> resting on the sink table so that when the cup is on the scale, its top is
>> eye level. I stir up the glaze with a Jiffy mixer
>>
>> and a drill, pour a good amount into the cup, place the cup on the scale,
>> and finish adding glaze with a turkey
>>
>> baster until there is a nice meniscus (the bulge from the liquid?s surface
>> tension trying to hold the liquid inside
>>
>> the container) and then I read the weight and note it down. That sharp
>> edge of my cup seems crucial to holding
>>
>> exactly the same amount time after time. When I get a weight that works,
>> I put it on the glaze notes I have on the
>>
>> wall and on the bucket as well.
>>
>>
>>
>> Perhaps this is no news to most of you and I cannot claim any originality
>> with this method. I did, however, have
>>
>> a (rare) flash of inspiration that may be novel. It occurred to me that
>> if I somehow lost or broke my precious cup, I?d be
>>
>> sunk?all that work having to be done again. I was a pretty rotten math
>> student, but something must have remained,
>>
>> for I got the idea to weigh the cup full of water and note that weight in
>> my records so that I could have a factor to measure
>>
>> against any other container in the future.
>>
>>
>>
>> I?ve been doing this method for over 40 years and it occurs to me that
>> perhaps there are more up to date ways to do this
>>
>> and I?d be open to hearing about them.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>>
>>
>> Dick Lumaghi
>>
>> dlumaghi at cybermesa.com=
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Norton antivirus software.
>> www.norton.com<http://www.norton.com>
>> -------------- next part --------------
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>>>
>>
>
>
> --
> http://www.dragonbellyceramics.com
> * where imagination meets function*
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End of Clayart Digest, Vol 111, Issue 12
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