[Clayart] sanding bottoms

David Woof woofpots at hotmail.com
Sun May 8 04:33:24 UTC 2022


Paul I agree, no offense taken, a fine well-crafted "product" as you say, is indeed the end-all.
An efficient process is the vehicle that gets us there with minimum time, effort, and energy expended.
Personal satisfaction in the process, and healthy pride in a well-received product brings enjoyment to both maker and user.

Woof.........................................................................................
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From: Clayart <clayart-bounces at lists.clayartworld.com> on behalf of paul gerhold <gerholdclay at gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 7, 2022 5:10 PM
To: Clayart international pottery discussion forum <clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
Subject: Re: [Clayart] sanding bottoms

Very nicely reasoned. I am not very competent  at word smithing so in the spirit of brevity here is my priceless opinion. " It is not the process, it is the product" . No offense intended by using product that was the best alliteration I could think up.

Paul

Sent from my iPad

> On May 7, 2022, at 4:43 PM, David Woof <woofpots at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Mel,
> Mel I too know about toothy clay and pots with a toothy grin when I desire that character!!!
>
> Bob was asking for specific advice and he received something valuable I'm sure, amid the cacophonic melee.
>
> I'd like to recap and stimulate thinking about the technique I believe is the single most foundation for achieving a no scratch and pleasing fine finish.
>
> Michael Wendt and several others mentioned burnishing the foot and foot rings at the "Leather hard" or foot trimming stage.
> I do this also as the most effective and least labor-intensive way to set up achieving the end result of smooth bottoms.  I use deer antler as my burnishing tool.
>
> Please note:  sanding of bisque erodes the finer clay particles while also dislodging larger particles and revealing substrate pores.
> ***Whereas burnishing compresses the clay surface and buries the gritty stuff deeper into the compressed clay.  So in burnishing before the bisque at leather-hard, one already setting up the way to smoother bottoms at the finished presentation.
>
> Also, regarding sanding away overall imperfections post bisque: using the right clay body for the task, and continuing to develop better and more efficient throwing and finishing technique mitigates the need to sand the bisque surface imperfections..
> Slow down, and pay attention to the details one does not notice when hurrying to produce quantity,........which before mastering quality, always suffers.
>
> Second to consider is why has one chosen a particular clay body?
>
> I formulate my clay body so that by burnishing after foot trimming, the foot arrives from the bisque baby cheeks smooth, and subsequently when vitrified during a Cone 6 Ox firing arrives in same baby bottom smooth condition.
>
> Hank and a number of others are known and respected to have made well considered body choices and dialed in their methods of handling residual grit for their personal desired results.
>
> But unless one needs Soldate 30 or 60, and gnarly Kyanite etc. etc.; why are you using a gnarly body for fine presentation?   And Mel I repeat: I know and love toothy clay and pots with a toothy grin when I desire that particular character!!!
>
> Ooops!  I almost forgot: this is Clayart!
> And I observe that some regularly posting folks really don't appear give a dead Rat about how someone else does anything except to argue about which way is the "rightest way!"  (the rightest way???)
>
> As the ancient and largely long forgotten Greek Poet said: "Ye are Gods"
>
> Love to all,
>
> Woof............................................................................................................................................
> *******************************************************************************
> ________________________________
> From: Clayart <clayart-bounces at lists.clayartworld.com> on behalf of mel jacobson <melpots at mail.com>
> Sent: Friday, May 6, 2022 2:37 AM
> To: clay art <clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
> Subject: [Clayart] sanding bottoms
>
> It all depends.
> There are many different clay bodies out there
> in Clayart land.  How you treat bottom cleaning
> is based on many factors.
> 1. I use a very rough clay, both sand and grog and
> Lake Superior iron bearing sand. I do the best I can
> to clean and smooth things out, but, I do not mess
> around for hours.  I rub the bottom with a piece of
> silicon carbide.
>
> My customers buy my work because it is "utilitarian"
> It is not precious.  My work goes in their dishwasher,
> rolls on the floor of their car. Often they are left
> outside on the deck. I make tough pots. They are to be
> used.
>
> 2. Often with porcelain, commercial white clay etc. the pots take on
> a "be careful" attitude.  Everything is smooth and glossy.
> The potter reflects that sort of look and feel. They smooth
> things out, both the trimming, and then again in bisque and
> then the final sanding when from the glaze firing.  If that
> is the look and feel you want...go for it. There is not
> a rule book.
>
> I love to work with a clay body with a nice "tooth". The color
> is dark brown. What I add to the clay gives it my "signature".
> My clay comes from a pug mill...never from a plastic bag of
> perfection clay, smooth, de aired, pristine. Lots of visitors to
> my pug mill. "lady bugs, dead mouse from time to time". It is all
> part of the process.
>
> I try to make pots that are the total opposite of the "Pottery Barn".
>
> As my life reflects, all the pots are sold, and customers come back
> time and again.
> mel
>
>
> website: www.melpots.com<http://www.melpots.com>
> www.melpots.com/CLAYART.HTML<http://www.melpots.com/CLAYART.HTML><http://www.melpots.com/CLAYART.HTML<http://www.melpots.com/CLAYART.HTML>>
>
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