[Clayart] sanding bottoms

Sat May 7 22:30:23 UTC 2022

Hi David - 
As usual, your post included some snarky comments that are not constructive.
Why do you do that?

The most important thing here is that the surface texture caused by grit in
the claybody is magnified after a midrange of highfire glaze firing, so no
matter how much you burnish at the leather-hard stage or sand at the
bisque-fired stage, you may still get a rough surface after the glaze
firing, especially if you fire in salt, soda, or wood.  My suggestion of the
flap wheel was simply offered as a solution that does work in all cases.  I
am not trying to talk anyone into using that method, simply pointing it out
as a tried-and-true method I have used for 40 years.  Wear appropriate dust
mask, of course!
- Vince

Vince Pitelka
Potter, Writer, Teacher
Chapel Hill, NC
vpitelka at dtccom.net
www.vincepitelka.com 
https://chathamartistsguild.org/ 

-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart <clayart-bounces at lists.clayartworld.com> On Behalf Of David
Woof
Sent: Saturday, May 7, 2022 10:35 AM
To: Clayart international pottery discussion forum
<clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
Subject: Re: [Clayart] sanding bottoms

Hi Mel,
Mel I too know about toothy clay and pots with a toothy grin when I desire
that character!!!

Bob was asking for specific advice and he received something valuable I'm
sure, amid the cacophonic melee.

I'd like to recap and stimulate thinking about the technique I believe is
the single most foundation for achieving a no scratch and pleasing fine
finish.

Michael Wendt and several others mentioned burnishing the foot and foot
rings at the "Leather hard" or foot trimming stage.
I do this also as the most effective and least labor-intensive way to set up
achieving the end result of smooth bottoms.  I use deer antler as my
burnishing tool.

Please note:  sanding of bisque erodes the finer clay particles while also
dislodging larger particles and revealing substrate pores.
***Whereas burnishing compresses the clay surface and buries the gritty
stuff deeper into the compressed clay.  So in burnishing before the bisque
at leather-hard, one already setting up the way to smoother bottoms at the
finished presentation.

Also, regarding sanding away overall imperfections post bisque: using the
right clay body for the task, and continuing to develop better and more
efficient throwing and finishing technique mitigates the need to sand the
bisque surface imperfections..
Slow down, and pay attention to the details one does not notice when
hurrying to produce quantity,........which before mastering quality, always
suffers.

Second to consider is why has one chosen a particular clay body?

I formulate my clay body so that by burnishing after foot trimming, the foot
arrives from the bisque baby cheeks smooth, and subsequently when vitrified
during a Cone 6 Ox firing arrives in same baby bottom smooth condition.

Hank and a number of others are known and respected to have made well
considered body choices and dialed in their methods of handling residual
grit for their personal desired results.

But unless one needs Soldate 30 or 60, and gnarly Kyanite etc. etc.; why are
you using a gnarly body for fine presentation?   And Mel I repeat: I know
and love toothy clay and pots with a toothy grin when I desire that
particular character!!!

Ooops!  I almost forgot: this is Clayart!
And I observe that some regularly posting folks really don't appear give a
dead Rat about how someone else does anything except to argue about which
way is the "rightest way!"  (the rightest way???)

As the ancient and largely long forgotten Greek Poet said: "Ye are Gods"

Love to all,

Woof........................................................................
....................................................................
****************************************************************************
***
________________________________
From: Clayart <clayart-bounces at lists.clayartworld.com> on behalf of mel
jacobson <melpots at mail.com>
Sent: Friday, May 6, 2022 2:37 AM
To: clay art <clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
Subject: [Clayart] sanding bottoms

It all depends.
There are many different clay bodies out there in Clayart land.  How you
treat bottom cleaning is based on many factors.
1. I use a very rough clay, both sand and grog and Lake Superior iron
bearing sand. I do the best I can to clean and smooth things out, but, I do
not mess around for hours.  I rub the bottom with a piece of silicon
carbide.

My customers buy my work because it is "utilitarian"
It is not precious.  My work goes in their dishwasher, rolls on the floor of
their car. Often they are left outside on the deck. I make tough pots. They
are to be used.

2. Often with porcelain, commercial white clay etc. the pots take on a "be
careful" attitude.  Everything is smooth and glossy.
The potter reflects that sort of look and feel. They smooth things out, both
the trimming, and then again in bisque and then the final sanding when from
the glaze firing.  If that is the look and feel you want...go for it. There
is not a rule book.

I love to work with a clay body with a nice "tooth". The color is dark
brown. What I add to the clay gives it my "signature".
My clay comes from a pug mill...never from a plastic bag of perfection clay,
smooth, de aired, pristine. Lots of visitors to my pug mill. "lady bugs,
dead mouse from time to time". It is all part of the process.

I try to make pots that are the total opposite of the "Pottery Barn".

As my life reflects, all the pots are sold, and customers come back time and
again.
mel

website: www.melpots.com<http://www.melpots.com>
www.melpots.com/CLAYART.HTML<http://www.melpots.com/CLAYART.HTML>

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